The province of Bohol has always held much fascination for me. An island located in central Visayas, it has always been in my consciousness, thanks to schoolbooks that touted that geographical oddity called the Chocolate Hills as the eighth wonder of the world; and, more recently, the promotion and preservation of the province’s cultural heritage by the likes of its native son, award-winning actor Cesar Montano, and Manila socialite and arts-and-culture advocate Bea Zobel Jr being lauded by the media. Well, after years of seeing the Chocolate Hills only in pictures and online (it’s been nominated as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature), I thought it was about time I saw this famous tourist landmark for myself.
It was a beautiful sunny day when my group and I landed in Tagbilaran City, Bohol’s capital and most progressive municipality—it was the perfect weather to explore the island by car. Just our luck, Honda was kind enough to allow us to road test their compact sedan, the City 1.5E. It seemed like the ideal car to handle the twisty roads on the way to the Chocolate Hills, one that the locals nicknamed “bituka ng manok” (chicken’s intestine). So we hit the ground running and headed directly to our first stop.
The Clarin Ancestral House
About 18 kilometers from the airport is the town of Laoy, where you’ll find the Clarin Ancestral House. Once home to Bohol’s former governor, Don Aniceto Velez Clarin, the house now stands as a museum boasting the family’s collection of furniture, paintings (even an original Amorsolo and Juan Luna), and home items that date back to the 1840s. Our warm and eager tour guide regaled us with fascinating facts about the house and its former inhabitants.
Being the most visited ancestral home in the province, it’s easy to feel like you’ve been transported back in time the moment you step inside. The design of the house is typical of the Philippines’ colonial past, with two floors of antiquity that give you a glimpse of what life might have been like during those times.
An old TV set here, a wooden rocking chair there—my lola would love it here… if she were still alive. The ground floor—which they used to call the silong—was converted into a small, charming restaurant called Café Olegario, where they serve native Boholano dishes, as well as Filipino food staples. We decided to stay and have a light breakfast of tsokolate and their version of puto maya, which is made with whole glutinous rice.
Being the most visited ancestral home in the province, it’s easy to feel like you’ve been transported back in time the moment you step inside. The design of the house is typical of the Philippines’ colonial past, with two floors of antiquity that give you a glimpse of what life might have been like during those times.
An old TV set here, a wooden rocking chair there—my lola would love it here… if she were still alive. The ground floor—which they used to call the silong—was converted into a small, charming restaurant called Café Olegario, where they serve native Boholano dishes, as well as Filipino food staples. We decided to stay and have a light breakfast of tsokolate and their version of puto maya, which is made with whole glutinous rice.
The tarsier has the largest pair of eyes among land mammals.After spending a couple of hours in a “time machine,” we were now on our way to a have a chance encounter with Bohol’s own version of the bushbaby—the tarsier. Small and docile, this nocturnal creature’s body is only four to six inches long with a 10.5-inch tail. Although its claim to be the world’s smallest primate is disputed in the scientific community, the tarsier undeniably has the largest pair of eyes (each one as big as its brain!) among all land mammals.
Cute as the tarsiers may be, it is heartbreaking to learn the story of this endangered species. Years of logging and slash-and-burn agriculture have significantly reduced Bohol’s forest cover, and with the loss of their natural habitat came the critical decline of the tarsier population. Apparently, tarsiers get stressed when touched and are said to bang their sensitive heads against a hard surface until they die, so please, if you encounter one, try not to harass these tiny helpless animals.
The best place to see the tarsiers is in an actual natural reserve. The Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella, where the primates are protected and allowed to live as normally as possible. There is a small thick forest within the 7.4-hectare property that is surrounded by fences and has narrow trails where visitors can walk through to try and spot the cuddly creatures. Our guide told us that tarsiers are territorial and tend to stay within the same vicinity, so it was easy for him to point out where they were. But, of course, the instructions were clear: no harassing, no feeding, no touching, no loud noises, no use of camera flash, and, since they are nocturnal, no disturbing. We were lucky enough to spot four of them hanging on to branches for dear life, including a two-month-old baby—so cute and tiny, I wanted to stuff it into my pocket and take it home!
Cute as the tarsiers may be, it is heartbreaking to learn the story of this endangered species. Years of logging and slash-and-burn agriculture have significantly reduced Bohol’s forest cover, and with the loss of their natural habitat came the critical decline of the tarsier population. Apparently, tarsiers get stressed when touched and are said to bang their sensitive heads against a hard surface until they die, so please, if you encounter one, try not to harass these tiny helpless animals.
The best place to see the tarsiers is in an actual natural reserve. The Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella, where the primates are protected and allowed to live as normally as possible. There is a small thick forest within the 7.4-hectare property that is surrounded by fences and has narrow trails where visitors can walk through to try and spot the cuddly creatures. Our guide told us that tarsiers are territorial and tend to stay within the same vicinity, so it was easy for him to point out where they were. But, of course, the instructions were clear: no harassing, no feeding, no touching, no loud noises, no use of camera flash, and, since they are nocturnal, no disturbing. We were lucky enough to spot four of them hanging on to branches for dear life, including a two-month-old baby—so cute and tiny, I wanted to stuff it into my pocket and take it home!
Cruising down the Loboc River
It was time for lunch, and when in Bohol, there’s no better way to have it than while sailing down the Loboc River. Among Bohol’s four arteries, the Loboc River is the most popular because of the hour-long cruise offered by several companies. For a reasonable P300, you can board a floating restaurant and enjoy a buffet of native dishes, like seaweed salad, organic fried chicken, and assorted kakanins. As we slowly sailed down the river while munching on the day’s fresh catch, I found the scenery to be just as appetizing: the lush trees on the riverbanks, the ripples made by our raft on the emerald waters… I think it’s true what they say, that green is the most relaxing color. The experience was made even better by mister guitar man, who serenaded us all throughout the ride. And to top it all off, at the end of the route, a group of townsfolk performed for us, from classic folk ditties to current novelty songs. After all, Loboc is the music capital of Bohol, having produced the Loboc Children’s Choir, which has won many international competitions, once even besting the worldrenowned Vienna Boys’ Choir.
Once we set foot on dry land, we wasted no time driving back to Tagbilaran City to visit one of the oldest churches in the country. The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, more popularly known as Baclayon Church, is considered to be one of the best-preserved Jesuit-built churches in the region. One fascinating fact about this church is that it’s built from blocks of coral stones with just egg whites used to hold them all together—now that’s truly a wonder of ancient architecture and engineering! Within the church compound is a small convent that houses a museum, which boasts a collection of religious artifacts and relics dating back to the 16th century.
Our guide pointed to one of the huge pillars on the side of the church—etched on it was the distinct image of Padre Pio, the result of a natural phenomenon. The outline of his face began to appear last year and since then, many devotees have made the pilgrimage to Baclayon Church just to see it. Just a few minutes away is another historical landmark we learned in school: the Blood Compact Site. Although the monument is quite humble in size and appearance, it is one of the most visited in the country due to its historical importance as it commemorates the first international treaty Filipinos as a people took part of. The blood compact, performed in 1565 between Spanish explorer Miguel López de Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna, sealed the friendship between the two races.
It was time for lunch, and when in Bohol, there’s no better way to have it than while sailing down the Loboc River. Among Bohol’s four arteries, the Loboc River is the most popular because of the hour-long cruise offered by several companies. For a reasonable P300, you can board a floating restaurant and enjoy a buffet of native dishes, like seaweed salad, organic fried chicken, and assorted kakanins. As we slowly sailed down the river while munching on the day’s fresh catch, I found the scenery to be just as appetizing: the lush trees on the riverbanks, the ripples made by our raft on the emerald waters… I think it’s true what they say, that green is the most relaxing color. The experience was made even better by mister guitar man, who serenaded us all throughout the ride. And to top it all off, at the end of the route, a group of townsfolk performed for us, from classic folk ditties to current novelty songs. After all, Loboc is the music capital of Bohol, having produced the Loboc Children’s Choir, which has won many international competitions, once even besting the worldrenowned Vienna Boys’ Choir.
Once we set foot on dry land, we wasted no time driving back to Tagbilaran City to visit one of the oldest churches in the country. The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, more popularly known as Baclayon Church, is considered to be one of the best-preserved Jesuit-built churches in the region. One fascinating fact about this church is that it’s built from blocks of coral stones with just egg whites used to hold them all together—now that’s truly a wonder of ancient architecture and engineering! Within the church compound is a small convent that houses a museum, which boasts a collection of religious artifacts and relics dating back to the 16th century.
Our guide pointed to one of the huge pillars on the side of the church—etched on it was the distinct image of Padre Pio, the result of a natural phenomenon. The outline of his face began to appear last year and since then, many devotees have made the pilgrimage to Baclayon Church just to see it. Just a few minutes away is another historical landmark we learned in school: the Blood Compact Site. Although the monument is quite humble in size and appearance, it is one of the most visited in the country due to its historical importance as it commemorates the first international treaty Filipinos as a people took part of. The blood compact, performed in 1565 between Spanish explorer Miguel López de Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna, sealed the friendship between the two races.
The view from Amorita Resort
As the day’s history lesson ended, it was time for a little relaxation at Amorita Resort, which is perched on a cliff on the eastern end of Alona Beach in Panglao Island. As soon as we checked in, we were greeted not only by the warm and friendly staff, but also by a breathtaking view of the white-sand beach and the calm turquoise waters of the Bohol Sea. There was no better way to end our educational yet fun-filled day.
Our second day started with a hearty breakfast. It was time once again to get into our Honda sedan and explore, and today we were off to visit the highlight of any trip to Bohol—the world-famous Chocolate Hills. But, of course, along the way, we city slickers could not help ourselves, getting out of the car every so often for photo opps at random seaside roads and rice fields—and one of the most stunning was the manmade mahogany forest, located along the towns of Loboc and Bilar.
Back in the 50s, Bohol’s then-governor planted symmetrical rows of mahogany trees a few feet apart on the side of the hills in order to prevent soil erosion that could cause flooding and landslides during typhoons. The forest occupies 857.4 hectares and has a two-kilometer stretch of road going through it. Today, the tall mahogany trees provide a shady canopy over the highway, offering road trippers like us a pleasant driving experience. We couldn’t help but roll down our windows and be refreshed and energized by the cool air hitting our faces as we drove through this lush rainforest.
After a couple of hours, I began to spot huge mounds in the middle of rice fields to the left and right side of the road. Little did I know this was the beginning of Bohol’s most famous attraction, the Chocolate Hills. After parking the car, we walked 214 steps to the top of one of the hills converted into a viewing deck. Up there, with an unobstructed view of this unique landscape, I must admit it took my breath away. I couldn’t believe it took me years to finally see these hills “in the flesh”—pictures certainly do not do them justice.
As the day’s history lesson ended, it was time for a little relaxation at Amorita Resort, which is perched on a cliff on the eastern end of Alona Beach in Panglao Island. As soon as we checked in, we were greeted not only by the warm and friendly staff, but also by a breathtaking view of the white-sand beach and the calm turquoise waters of the Bohol Sea. There was no better way to end our educational yet fun-filled day.
Our second day started with a hearty breakfast. It was time once again to get into our Honda sedan and explore, and today we were off to visit the highlight of any trip to Bohol—the world-famous Chocolate Hills. But, of course, along the way, we city slickers could not help ourselves, getting out of the car every so often for photo opps at random seaside roads and rice fields—and one of the most stunning was the manmade mahogany forest, located along the towns of Loboc and Bilar.
Back in the 50s, Bohol’s then-governor planted symmetrical rows of mahogany trees a few feet apart on the side of the hills in order to prevent soil erosion that could cause flooding and landslides during typhoons. The forest occupies 857.4 hectares and has a two-kilometer stretch of road going through it. Today, the tall mahogany trees provide a shady canopy over the highway, offering road trippers like us a pleasant driving experience. We couldn’t help but roll down our windows and be refreshed and energized by the cool air hitting our faces as we drove through this lush rainforest.
After a couple of hours, I began to spot huge mounds in the middle of rice fields to the left and right side of the road. Little did I know this was the beginning of Bohol’s most famous attraction, the Chocolate Hills. After parking the car, we walked 214 steps to the top of one of the hills converted into a viewing deck. Up there, with an unobstructed view of this unique landscape, I must admit it took my breath away. I couldn’t believe it took me years to finally see these hills “in the flesh”—pictures certainly do not do them justice.
Chocolate Hills, one of the new 7 wonders of the world.
Spread throughout an area of more than 50 square kilometers, the Chocolate Hills is an unusual geological formation of nearly two thousand limestone mounds, all almost of similar shape and symmetry. The domes are covered in grass and low trees, but during the summer they turn brown, resembling Hershey’s Kisses; hence the name.
Each and every mound, no matter how tall or small, is protected by law and cannot touched or be built on. There is also a proposal to declare it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Like all journeys, unfortunately, this too had to end. As we drove back to where we started, I could not help but look back and think about this whole experience. The tarsiers, the heritage home, the old church, the warm welcome in Loboc River, and the grandeur of a thousand hills—they all truly made an impression on me. On the plane, flying back to Manila, I sat back, took a deep breath, closed my eyes, and smiled. I was glad my schoolbooks were right: The Chocolate Hills—maybe even the whole of Bohol—is indeed a wonder of the world.
Spread throughout an area of more than 50 square kilometers, the Chocolate Hills is an unusual geological formation of nearly two thousand limestone mounds, all almost of similar shape and symmetry. The domes are covered in grass and low trees, but during the summer they turn brown, resembling Hershey’s Kisses; hence the name.
Each and every mound, no matter how tall or small, is protected by law and cannot touched or be built on. There is also a proposal to declare it as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Like all journeys, unfortunately, this too had to end. As we drove back to where we started, I could not help but look back and think about this whole experience. The tarsiers, the heritage home, the old church, the warm welcome in Loboc River, and the grandeur of a thousand hills—they all truly made an impression on me. On the plane, flying back to Manila, I sat back, took a deep breath, closed my eyes, and smiled. I was glad my schoolbooks were right: The Chocolate Hills—maybe even the whole of Bohol—is indeed a wonder of the world.
NEED TO KNOW
Bohol is an island province located in the Central Visayas Region, consisting of the main Bohol Island and 75 minor surrounding islands. It is surrounded by Cebu to the northwest, by Leyte to the northeast, and by the Mindanao Sea to the south. Aside from being a popular tourist destination, Bohol also plays an important role in Philippine history—it was the site of the famous blood compact of friendship between Spanish explorer Miguel López de Legazpi and Bohol chief Datu Sikatuna.TRAVELER’S CHECKLIST
Phone area code: 38Commonly spoken languages: Boholano, Cebuano, Filipino, English
Travel time from Manila: An hour and 15 minutes by plane; 25 hours by ship.
WHAT TO BRING
• Casual clothing (shorts, T-shirts, flip-flops)• Swimwear
• Snorkeling/diving gear
• Cash (ATMs may not be readily available)
OTHER THINGS TO DO
Go on an extreme/eco/educational adventure tour (or EAT) Danao Adventure Park offers activities for the thrill-seeking tourist: ziplining, river tubing, spelunking, and the plunge (where you swing like a pendulum in a canyon).Engage in water activities like swimming, snorkeling, and diving Bohol is blessed with many beautiful beaches, rich coral reefs, and undiscovered waterfalls known only to locals.
Take a dolphin- and whale-watching tour Dolphin- and whale-hunting used to be traditional forms of livelihood in the province, but the government ban has made former hunters switch to this new source of revenue.
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